[Port Said Travel Diary 1] Egypt’s Northernmost Edge

A Weekend Getaway to Port Said

During the COVID-19 pandemic, I spent a month traveling around Egypt, convinced that I had covered all the must-visit spots. But after settling here, I started discovering hidden gems-places near Cairo that make for day trips.

Faiyum, Ain Sokhna, Port Said, and the North Coast are some of the most popular ones. Yet, ironically, the longer I’ve lived here, the less inclined I am to visit them.

I went to Faiyum last year when a friend’s brother organized a travel event. But as for the other places? Even when opportunities arise, I usually pass, thinking, “I’ll get around to it someday.”

One person, however, was determined to change that-Kaykay, the master planner. She had been casually bringing up a trip to Port Said since last year, and a few months ago, she started getting serious about setting a date. Finally, in early February, we made it happen.

Was it worth it? Absolutely! But it left me wondering-would I have enjoyed it as much if I hadn’t gone with someone as meticulous as Kaykay?

The Journey to Port Said

At 7am, we boarded a GoBus that Kaykay had pre-booked. The bus class was Super Go D which was comfortable enough (I fell asleep immediately), though the seatbelt didn’t work.

The trip took around three hours, and we arrived in Port Said at 10am. I had heard a lot about the city, but somehow never really absorbed the details. I expected a sleepy, rural town, so stepping into a bustling urban landscape was a refreshing surprise.

The crisp morning air was the first thing I noticed. Unlike Cairo, where the air often feels thick, the fresh breeze filled my lungs. The streets, though similar to Cairo in many ways, seemed noticeably cleaner.

First Stop: The Ferry Ride

Our first destination was the ferry terminal, and we took a taxi to get there. Taxis were our primary mode of transport throughout the day, and like in Dahab, most short rides cost 20 EGP. Despite being visibly foreign, we never felt overcharged-though, to be fair, Kaykay handled all the bargaining. Even when we later stopped asking for prices upfront, every driver consistently asked for 20EGP unless the ride was over 15 minutes long.

The ferry itself was free and frequent enough that we barely had to wait. Kaykay mentioned that when she visited three years ago, she remembered waiting for a while, so maybe weekend schedules were more frequent.

During the short ride, a massive white mosque caught my eye. It was strikingly bright and pristine, something you don’t often see here. Neither of us had been to Turkiye, but we both instinctively thought of it.

A secluded Beach

After taking the ferry, we immediately called a taxi and headed to our first stop-a quite, nearly deserted beach. Despite the emptiness, we kept walking farther and farther toward the edge.

The shore was littered with trash, seashells washed up by the waves, and scattered seaweed, giving it a somewhat messy appearance. Heavy clouds loomed overhead, creating an atmosphere distinctly different from Cairo. Kaykay always prepared, had even brought an umbrella, recalling that it had rained during her previous visit.

As we continued walking, we eventually reached a fenced-off area guarded by a soldier. It was a military base. Just a few steps away, a man stood fishing.

We put our bags down and asked a walking toward us where the nearest restroom was. He pointed us to a cafe, which turned out to be his own. He also claimed that the beach was his private property and that we had to pay a 50 EGP entrance fee-not per person, but for the group. We arrived around 11am and stayed for about two hours. Just as we were about to leave, the man showed up again to collect the fee.

Kaykay had warned me about the cold. When she visited in March a few years ago, it was freezing, and she made sure I was prepared-going as far as buying me a beanie and gloves as a gift. But this time, the weather was pleasant, with the sun shining brightly.

We had brought yoga mats for a picnic, but the sun was too intense, so we moved under the shade of a parasol. Thanks to Kaykay, who practically plans trips around photography, our setup looked picturesque. She had even packed bread for breakfast and brought a white mat from home. I genuinely appreciated it.

While Kaykay strolled along the shore with her feet in the water, I stayed put, enjoying the sound of the waves and the gentle breeze as I read my book. She had come prepared-wearing boots, packing a change of clothes, and even buying waterproof shin guards from Decathlon. The last time she was here, she had to return to Cairo in wet clothes!

When she finally felt satisfied with her photos and beach walk, she came over to join me for breakfast. That’s when she pointed out that we were incredibly close to Cyprus, Greece, and even Gaza. I pulled up a map, and sure enough, they were just a short distance away.

Suddenly, a strange thought crossed my mind. If something happened in Gaza or Israel, could people here hear it? See it in the sky? The proximity felt eerie for a moment.

Heading Back to Ferry

After wrapping up our mini beach getaway, we hopped back on the ferry. This time, we stood near the edge to watch the seagulls.

Kaykay, ever the planner, had already researched a clothing store with fitting rooms where we could comfortably change out of our wet clothes, So, once we got back to the mainland, we grabbed a taxi and headed there.

To be continued.

Things I’ll miss about Egypt

A day of badminton

Living in Egypt has been a unique experience, full of moments that challenge me and others that bring unexpected joy.

Today was one of those joyful days, where a simple game of badminton turned into an opportunity to connect with people from different backgrounds and cultures.

It’s Friday, and as my new normal, I headed to my weekly badminton group. This was my fourth time joining the group, and I could feel the difference in my energy and skills compared to the previous weeks.

Today I felt particularly good, maybe because I was in better condition, or perhaps I’m getting better at the game. Either way, I was excited to see what the day had in store.

I think the new people who saw me play for the first time might have thought that I am good at badminton. haha. It’s not entirely true, but it felt good to perform well today.

Meeting new faces and learning more about Egypt

One of the highlights of the day was meeting new people. Emily, a French teacher here in Egypt, shared some surprising things about Egypt’s education system. She told me that many of her students aren’t focused on their studies and simply buy their diplomas instead of earning them. It was shocking to hear.

She also mentioned that her school has some notable students, including the grandsons of Alam Hassan, a huge construction company owner in Egypt. I thought Memaar almorshedy was a huge and reputable construction company, so I asked if the company Alam Hassan owned was even bigger than Memaar almorshedy. They told me that compared to these two companies, Memaar almorshedy is actually very, very small. Interestingly, her husband Omar’s school is attended by the grandsons of Egypt’s president, Sisi.

She has been living in Egypt for 10 years, but she’s now considering moving back to France because of the worsening economic situation here.

Another new face was Shell. She had such a great vibe, friendly, funny, and just easy to get along with. We ended up playing together for quite a while, and it was clear that she and I were much better than the two guys we were playing with.😜 We were playing well enough that we eventually had to mix up the teams to keep things balanced.

I felt a bit bad that I didn’t get the chance to ask the names of the two guys, but it was clear we all had a good time. They joked that it was their first time playing badminton, which surprised both Shell and me because they were quite skilled for beginners. Eventually, I realized they were just joking, so I played along and said it was my first time too. Shell echoed the joke, and it felt like we were all on the same wavelength, sharing a fun, lightheared moment.

There was also another lady named Manar. She’s Egyptian and a complete beginner, it was only her second time playing badminton. She seemed to feel the difference in skill level between us, and I noticed she felt pressured even when we gave her the opportunity to try. Everyone has a starting point, but being the only one falling behind in a group game must have made her uncomfortable, and I completely understand.

Also at the same time, I wanted to play harder, I wanted to run more, jump, and make it more challenging. I think it would be better if we played according to our skill levels. That way, it would be more enjoyable for everyone. On the way back home, Emily mentioned the same thing. But then I realized that if we play by skill levels, it might limit the chances to play with new people, which isn’t ideal either. The more I think about it, it seems like we’re already playing in the best way possible, haha😅

The last new lady, Cat. I am curious if the name ‘Cat’ is common in Scotland since she’s from there. Her name gave me a sense that she has a cat-like vibe. I didn’t get a chance to play badminton with her, so I thought she wasn’t part of our group. but it turns out she was.

When there wasn’t much time left, Osama gathered eight of us to play sitting badminton, and Cat was there too. She was really good at it. I told her she was great at playing while sitting, and she humbly replied that maybe it was because she’s tall.

She also mentioned that I am the first Korean she’s met in Egypt. She studied Chinese in China, but because of Covid19, she had to go back home in 2020 and finished her degree online. It was funny because Osama had spent some time in China as well, and Emily had lived in China 12 years ago. They all started talking about China, and I joked that I could join their conversation because I’m Asian. But right after I said it, I regretted it. When someone greets me with ‘Nihao’ or ‘Konnichiwa’, I can’t help but think they must be poorly educated. But to think that I said something so low myself🥲 I wonder how the people took it.

Things I’ll miss about Egypt

The list of things I’ll miss when I leave Egypt keeps growing. The number of people I’ll miss has also increased. This is why I’m thinking about focusing on Instagram, but it feels like such a hassle and a charge.

After writing this journal yesterday, Osama contacted me today, saying that people had been complimenting me a lot. I’m really going to miss this place. It’s going to be tough, I wish I could visit Egypt often, even if I end up living somewhere else, once I have more money.

Extending my Egyptian Visa in Cairo

From the US to Egypt: A world of differences

Living in the US and then coming to Egypt feels like moving between two completely different worlds – almost like night and day.

One of those differences is the visa. In most countries, visas are extremely important. If your visa situation isn’t sorted out, in many cases, you have no choice but to return to your home country immediately. But here in Egypt, it’s not such a big deal if your visa expires a little late. (At least for Koreans)

It seems that many Koreans here stay on a one-month tourist visa and just a penalty at the airport when they leave. But a few months ago, word started going around that visa checks were getting stricter, and everyone was told to make sure to extend their visas.

Leave Egypt with an expired visa

When I first came to Egypt, I was on a one-month tourist visa. I ended up staying an extra day and was super nervous and worried about it. But I heard that the visa extension process is so slow that they usually don’t mind if you overstay by about 15days. I managed to leave Egypt without any problems.

Back then, the slow visa process worked in my favor, but now I have to go through it…

The journey to the immigration office

Anyway, I headed to the immigration office to extend my visa. We planned to leave early since they open at 8am, but we ended up leaving the house at 8 instead.

The area around the office had that typical local Cairo vibe, but once inside the building, it was surprisingly modern and spacious.

Navigating the visa extension process

To extend your visa, you need to go to window number 5 on the second floor. It’s really confusing, but you have to line up at the window to get the application form and a ticket number. And let me tell you, people here don’t really “line up” – there’s a lot of cutting in line.

After filling out the form, I went to the bank corner to exchange $200 into Egyptian pounds and got a receipt. Then I returned to the same window to show the receipt and get a ticket number. Or was it the other way around? Honestly, I don’t remember it well.

After that, I waited for my number to be called. When it was finally my turn, the window clerk told me to go back to the bank and pay the visa fee in pounds. Since I had overstayed by a month, I also had to pay a penalty.

Two people with me had overstayed by more than two months, so they had to pay even higher penalties. Altogether, our six-month visas and penalties come to around 20,640 pounds.

Waiting… and more waiting

There was another long line at the bank, but when I returned to the window, our number hadn’t moved at all.

From this point on, the actual visa extension process started. The clerk checked our forms, stamped them, took our photos, and scanned our fingerprints.

Today’s Thursday, and they told us to come back next Wednesday. Honestly, I never want to come back here again.

It’s so noisy and chaotic, and waiting feels like such a waste of time.

A quick summary of the steps

To sum it up:

  1. Go to window 5 on the second floor to get the application form and fill it out.
  2. Go to the bank to exchange dollars into pounds.
    (I exchanged $200 – though not all of this goes toward the visa fee)
  3. Return to the same window to show the receipt and get a ticket number.
    (I can’t remember if I got the ticket in step 1 or step 3)
  4. Wait for your number to be called.
  5. When your turn comes, submit your passport and application form. The clerk will then send you back to the bank to pay the visa fee.
  6. Go to the bank and pay the visa fee in pounds.
  7. Return to the same window to submit the receipt, take your photo, and scan your fingerprints.

What I learned

I thought I’d have to come back to pick up my passport (since that’s how it’s done for the Philippines visa and the US visa), but they gave it back right away. I just need to pick up the visa next week.

Honestly, it feels like such a waste of time, and I never want to experience that noise and waiting again.

What’s strange is that, from what I can tell, window 5 on the second floor is the only place issuing six-month tourist visas. So, what are all these other people here for? The building seems to have more than five floors and it was full of people.

The air conditioning kept things comfortable inside, but when I left, I saw hundreds of people sitting outside on rows of chairs, waiting.

I also found out that, at first, they only issue a single-entry 6-month visa (no other options). After that, you can apply for a re-entry visa, but it only allows you to re-enter once during its validity period.

Completed Week 8-2 of Runday

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/runday-run-walk-stairs-hiking

There’s just a 5-minute difference between Week 8-2 and 8-3 of Runday.

Today marks the longest run of my life. Every time I do Runday, I keep breaking my own records!

I never imagined that running for 25 minutes could be so easy and fun. I used to dread those long-distance runs in school; they seemed like a huge deal back thenㅠ!!

Honestly, I still don’t quite understand why running is so enjoyable or why I’m so hooked. I still can’t understand the reason why I love it so much.

But today, my heart rate shot up too much. Maybe it’s because I went running after the boxing class.
or maybe yesterday, my body felt heavy and uncomfortable—maybe that carried over to today.

To make matters worse, my Apple watch didn’t track accurately today. The treadmill and my watch showed quite different speeds and distances. I thought I was going to earn the Fastest 5km badge from Apple fitness. but I didn’t. How did past me run faster than me today?

Anyway, I’m eager to finish 8-3 so I can move on to the next challenge! I’m having so much fun, and I’m really proud of myself. I’m doing things that past me would never have even attempted.

I just noticed my cadence was slower than usual today. Could that be the reason that my Apple watch didn’t track accurately? Or maybe the tracking was off, making my cadence look slower too?