A Weekend Getaway to Port Said

During the COVID-19 pandemic, I spent a month traveling around Egypt, convinced that I had covered all the must-visit spots. But after settling here, I started discovering hidden gems-places near Cairo that make for day trips.

Faiyum, Ain Sokhna, Port Said, and the North Coast are some of the most popular ones. Yet, ironically, the longer I’ve lived here, the less inclined I am to visit them.

I went to Faiyum last year when a friend’s brother organized a travel event. But as for the other places? Even when opportunities arise, I usually pass, thinking, “I’ll get around to it someday.”

One person, however, was determined to change that-Kaykay, the master planner. She had been casually bringing up a trip to Port Said since last year, and a few months ago, she started getting serious about setting a date. Finally, in early February, we made it happen.

Was it worth it? Absolutely! But it left me wondering-would I have enjoyed it as much if I hadn’t gone with someone as meticulous as Kaykay?

The Journey to Port Said

At 7am, we boarded a GoBus that Kaykay had pre-booked. The bus class was Super Go D which was comfortable enough (I fell asleep immediately), though the seatbelt didn’t work.

The trip took around three hours, and we arrived in Port Said at 10am. I had heard a lot about the city, but somehow never really absorbed the details. I expected a sleepy, rural town, so stepping into a bustling urban landscape was a refreshing surprise.

The crisp morning air was the first thing I noticed. Unlike Cairo, where the air often feels thick, the fresh breeze filled my lungs. The streets, though similar to Cairo in many ways, seemed noticeably cleaner.

First Stop: The Ferry Ride

Our first destination was the ferry terminal, and we took a taxi to get there. Taxis were our primary mode of transport throughout the day, and like in Dahab, most short rides cost 20 EGP. Despite being visibly foreign, we never felt overcharged-though, to be fair, Kaykay handled all the bargaining. Even when we later stopped asking for prices upfront, every driver consistently asked for 20EGP unless the ride was over 15 minutes long.

The ferry itself was free and frequent enough that we barely had to wait. Kaykay mentioned that when she visited three years ago, she remembered waiting for a while, so maybe weekend schedules were more frequent.

During the short ride, a massive white mosque caught my eye. It was strikingly bright and pristine, something you don’t often see here. Neither of us had been to Turkiye, but we both instinctively thought of it.

A secluded Beach

After taking the ferry, we immediately called a taxi and headed to our first stop-a quite, nearly deserted beach. Despite the emptiness, we kept walking farther and farther toward the edge.

The shore was littered with trash, seashells washed up by the waves, and scattered seaweed, giving it a somewhat messy appearance. Heavy clouds loomed overhead, creating an atmosphere distinctly different from Cairo. Kaykay always prepared, had even brought an umbrella, recalling that it had rained during her previous visit.

As we continued walking, we eventually reached a fenced-off area guarded by a soldier. It was a military base. Just a few steps away, a man stood fishing.

We put our bags down and asked a walking toward us where the nearest restroom was. He pointed us to a cafe, which turned out to be his own. He also claimed that the beach was his private property and that we had to pay a 50 EGP entrance fee-not per person, but for the group. We arrived around 11am and stayed for about two hours. Just as we were about to leave, the man showed up again to collect the fee.

Kaykay had warned me about the cold. When she visited in March a few years ago, it was freezing, and she made sure I was prepared-going as far as buying me a beanie and gloves as a gift. But this time, the weather was pleasant, with the sun shining brightly.

We had brought yoga mats for a picnic, but the sun was too intense, so we moved under the shade of a parasol. Thanks to Kaykay, who practically plans trips around photography, our setup looked picturesque. She had even packed bread for breakfast and brought a white mat from home. I genuinely appreciated it.

While Kaykay strolled along the shore with her feet in the water, I stayed put, enjoying the sound of the waves and the gentle breeze as I read my book. She had come prepared-wearing boots, packing a change of clothes, and even buying waterproof shin guards from Decathlon. The last time she was here, she had to return to Cairo in wet clothes!

When she finally felt satisfied with her photos and beach walk, she came over to join me for breakfast. That’s when she pointed out that we were incredibly close to Cyprus, Greece, and even Gaza. I pulled up a map, and sure enough, they were just a short distance away.

Suddenly, a strange thought crossed my mind. If something happened in Gaza or Israel, could people here hear it? See it in the sky? The proximity felt eerie for a moment.

Heading Back to Ferry

After wrapping up our mini beach getaway, we hopped back on the ferry. This time, we stood near the edge to watch the seagulls.

Kaykay, ever the planner, had already researched a clothing store with fitting rooms where we could comfortably change out of our wet clothes, So, once we got back to the mainland, we grabbed a taxi and headed there.

To be continued.